Oct 09 2009
Quilled “Boo!” Halloween Card

Oct 09 2009

Aug 31 2009
“Thanks for sharing your ideas. The rose pattern came just in time as I’m working on a wedding invitation and was looking for a fill in. I used a strip of variation paper (shaded from red to white and back to red) and it came out beautifully.”

Fig 1
Rick had matted a wedding picture of her husband’s greatniece who married Mr. Rose (hence the roses), along with the front and inside of their wedding invitation. She then quilled beautiful flower sprays to decorate the mat, duplicating the flowers used in the bridesmaids’ bouquets. She did a great job and I can only imagine how pleased the bride will be to receive such a loving reminder of her wedding day.

Fig 2
Rick took the pattern I provided and changed it by using the variegated paper (Fig 1). I think that it softened the rose and made it a better fit for her overall design. She used the rose pattern again in her floral spray at the bottom of her piece (Fig 2), but changed the center teardrop of the rose to a marquise and omitted the rose leaves.
…
Aug 24 2009

Fig 1
1. Tear Your Paper Ends

Fig 2
2. Coil Shaping Tricks

Fig 3
3. Hide Seams During Assembly

Fig 4
When gluing two loose coils together, try and turn the coils so that as one coil ends, the next one seems to begin, like an S-scroll only in two pieces (Fig 4).
Aug 11 2009
Puffy Velvet Fabric Markers by Marvy® Uchida are, as the name clearly indicates, made for fabrics. However, paper crafters have discovered these markers and the product packaging now states that they are also “great for paper crafts.” I was introduced to these markers through a very creative Yahoo! Group I belong to called the Scrapbook Lounge and have long wondered if the markers could be used with quilling. Now that I have my blog I just had to buy some and try it — all in the name of research, you understand. LOL!!!
Fig. 1
Like many markers on the market, when you first open one, you need to shake it and then press the tip down on some scrap paper so the color can fill the tip. Once the color flows, you are good to go.

Fig. 2
After letting it dry for 30 minutes per the instructions, I heated it with the heat gun and it puffed — a lot (Fig. 2). While I didn’t like it enough to use it on my quilling, I found the effect very interesting and wanted to give it another try. I quilled another rose bud and applied the fabric paint, but this time I immediately patted it with a paper towel to remove any excess paint.

Fig. 3
When I applied the heat gun, it didn’t puff nearly as much (Fig. 3). The instructions tell you not to rub it after the puff-up effect is achieved, but I just had to touch it and it does, indeed, feel very soft and velvety. I thought that this rose was worthy of finishing and made it into a card, just like I did with the plain one.

Fig. 4
You’ll see in Fig. 4 that the top rose is plain for comparison. The middle rose has the puffy paint on, but it just didn’t do anything. Trying to be fair, I made another yellow rose and gave it go. In trying to get the paint to puff, you can see that I held the heat gun on the rose too long and burned the paper. Oops! I really don’t know if the problem is with the puffy paint marker or the user.
Jul 18 2009
Spread a very thin layer of glue as large as your quilllwork onto a flat surface like a plate or plastic lid. Using a pair of tweezers, pick up your quilling, touch the bottom edges of the paper to the glue, then place it on the desired backing. A thin glue (such as Elmer’s) works best for this technique. If you normally use a thick, tacky glue for quilling, you might try thinning it with a drop or two of water. You want the glue thin enough to spread thinly and evenly over your flat work surface. A foam brush helps to spread the glue. If the glue is too thick, the loose center of the coils will stick to the gluing surface, pulling them apart and ruining your piece. This method works especially well when tendrils and vines are part of the design. Once you have the glue on the back of your quillwork, you need to attach it exactly where you want it. If you try and slide your quilling into the correct placement, you will leave glue smudges. Any glue you see will turn shiny and even though it is clear, it will be noticeable.
You can also use a small paintbrush to paint the glue onto the back of your quilling. Use care in touching only the bottom edges of the paper with the glue to avoid unwanted globs or smudges. Again, a thinner glue is easier to spread with the paintbrush. Tweezers are useful to help hold the quilling and assist in placement when glued.
I actually don’t use either of these methods. I spread glue on the back of my quilling using a toothpick. I pick up a little glue on the tip of the toothpick and roll the toothpick over the quills. Depending on the design, I apply glue to the tight rolls and centers of the quills to allow a little more “wiggle room” when placing the quilling on my background. If glue is not over the entire back, I can slide the quilling just a tad if needed without the glue showing. If I do end up with a bit of glue on the background, I slightly moisten a fresh toothpick (you don’t want it dripping) and gently wipe up the glue. Jul 10 2009
The beauty of this system is that it not only allows me to capture a brief description of my idea, but to include a sketch, crude as it may be, or attach the actual picture that provided the original inspiration. I scanned one of my cards to show you what I mean. It’s not “pretty” and I certainly had no idea at the time I made it that anyone else would ever see it, but I think it accurately demonstrates my point.Jun 26 2009
July 4th is right around the corner and I wanted to create a special quilling project to celebrate America’s birthday. I was looking around the Internet for patriotic images when I happened upon an American flag made with safety pins and pony beads. Now, this is not a new craft; children have been making safety pin jewelry for years. But this time when I saw the photo something clicked and I began to wonder if I could substitute quilled beads for the plastic pony beads. I pulled out a safety pin from my sewing basket and made a few tight coils as test beads. I slipped them on the safety pin and realized that the idea would work. After a trip to my local craft store for the safety pins, I was ready to make my own version of this childhood crafting classic. Jun 18 2009
Along with a bit about the background history of this fascinating art form, I’ll introduce you to the tools and supplies you’ll need to get started. Then its time to learn the basics of quilling –coils and scrolls — and how to assemble your completed piece of quillwork. I’ve even included three new projects to try, from beginner to more advanced. These are complete projects and include more than just the pattern for the quilling itself. You’ll find a photo of the completed piece, a materials list, and a line drawing of the quilling you can print off and use with your quilling work board. This e-book is chock full of helpful hints and tips, and even has a section that addresses common quilling problems.
This is a downloadable copy, and I want to send you one. Just sign up for my newsletter so you can keep up to date with more patterns and additional ideas and tips, and I’ll get you your copy right away!
Your information will not be shared, and the e-book is free to everyone, so I hope you’ll take a moment to subscribe and get your copy now!
Let’s start quilling today!!
Jun 13 2009
The trunk of the palm tree is made from a coil called a “rectangle” because it is, well, a rectangle. To make this quill, roll a loose coil and pinch it into a marquise. Next, move the marquise slightly between your thumbs and index fingers and pinch again, forming two more points near the original ones. You should now have a rectangle quill that has two long sides and two short sides.
We’ll also be playing with a new tool — a paper crimper. I bought mine at the North American Quilling Guild Conference this past May. The one I have is made by Paplin, but there are several good ones on the market. It isn’t a “must have” quilling tool, but it is so much fun. To use the crimper, simply feed your paper strip through the gears and it comes out crimped. If you don’t have a paper crimper you can still make the palm tree. Just make the palm fronds with straight quilling paper instead.
Finally, I want to show you a bit about wheatears. This isn’t a coil or a scroll because you don’t curl the paper, you loop it instead. To make a wheatear, create a small loop. Now, while holding the original loop, make a larger loop around it. Keep looping the paper until your wheatear is as long as desired, then glue the paper down at the starting point and either tear or cut off the excess paper. Wheatears can be left rounded, or shaped like a coil. For the palm frond, you’ll pinch the ends like a marquise and bend the ends in opposite directions to give the frond a little curve.
Free Quilling Pattern – Palm Tree & Small GoldfishJun 02 2009
A simple, temporary board can be made from any sturdy sheet of cork board, plastic foam, corrugated cardboard, or other similar material. A nice size is 6″ x 8″, but use what you have. For my quilling classes, I have taken inexpensive 12″ x 12″ cork squares, cut them into four 6″ x 6″ squares, and edged them with masking tape. These work very well, and if one happens to get away from me, it can easily be replaced. Go green with a quilling workboard made from corrugated cardboard cut from a box that was headed for the trash. When it has too many holes to be useful, just place it in the recycling bin.
For symmetrical work, a design grid can be created from a piece of graph paper cut to fit your quilling workboard. Using a ruler and black pen or fine-tip marker, draw in your vertical and horizontal lines to divide your sheet roughly into fourths. Continue to draw in intersecting lines as needed for your pattern. Circles can be added to the grid with the aid of a compass or circle template.
Quilling Tip: Use glue sparingly, especially when creating your design over wax paper so the wax on the wax paper does not become glued to the bottom of your quillwork.